Why Do My Lights Dim When The Air Conditioner Turns On?
Why Do My Breakers Trip?
How Can You Check The Wiring Behind My Walls?
Can This Service Detect Problems In Outlets or Light Fixtures?
Do You Fix Problems When You Find Them?
What Happens If You Find A Critical Problem Ready To Cause A Fire?
What Happens If CurrentSAFE ™ Finds Code Violations?
Our Electric Panel Has Fuses, Do We Need To Replace It?
How Can I Reduce My Electric Bill?
Can You Find An Electrical Short In My Home?
Will My Insurance Carrier Give Me A Break On My Homeowners Policy?
I Have Knob & Tube Wiring, Do I Have To Replace It?
What Is A Ground Fault Interrupter?
Is An Arc Fault Circuit Breaker The Same As A GFI Beaker?
How Many Smoke Detectors Do I Need In My Home?
How Does CurrentSAFE ™ Test Smoke Detectors?
What Type Of Smoke Detector Should I Buy?
Are There Requirements For Installing Smoke Detectors?
Answer: This would be the #1 question ever asked. Other variations of this question include: “When The Furnace Turns On”, “Microwave”, “Washing Machine” or other equipment that dims the lights for a brief period of time.
Identifying the cause of dimming lights and determining the extent of the problem can be time consuming.
Our CurrentSAFE Standard Home Electrical Hazard Detection Service INCLUDES testing and documenting the conditions for all of the following possibilities:
- Low voltage
- Loose connections
- Under sized wiring
- Resistance problem in wiring
- Phase imbalance
- Circuit breaker malfunction
- Overloading of circuits
Other issues found that are beyond our Standard Service testing procedures include:
- Failing motors or internal wiring issues in appliances or heating and air conditioning equipment.
- The quality of power provided by the utility company. NOTE: This does not always mean that the utility provider is obligated to rectify the problem. Utility providers have acceptable limits and tolerances that allow some fluctuation.
It will be necessary to experience the dimming event to identify the problem. When we have completed our service, we will provide you with a report detailing our findings. We will review the report with you and discuss your options.
Answer: Generally, this is due to overloaded circuits, weak breakers or defective breakers.
- A circuit breaker is rated to protect a defined ampacity; exceeding the rated ampacity may cause “tripping” of breakers.
- Breakers with a continuous heavy load or a load close to the circuit breaker rated value can stress the internal workings of the breaker and weaken the trip mechanism. This is a common cause of nuisance tripping and circuit breaker replacement and/or re-circuiting is recommended.
- Circuit breakers can fail and I have yet to find an item that has never had a manufacturer's defect. We check for that!
Answer: State of the art testing equipment!
- Costs have prohibited these services in the past, however, CurrentSAFE has combined specialized testing equipment to make the service economical.
- We use a patented “Circuit Analyzer” that checks the wiring behind the walls. This Analyzer tests for loose connections, false grounds and high resistance connections that can cause heating and possibly fires.
Answer: Yes! We have specialized testing equipment to identify these problems!
- “Ultrasonic Detection” listens for corona, tracking and arcing, which are the three stages prior to an electrical fire. Our equipment listens to sounds at 100,000kHtz (you and I hear an average of about 16,000kHtz). This means we can hear the very beginning stages of electrical discharge and confidently verify the safety of your electrical system and home.
- Our “FLIR” or infrared thermographic imaging camera, will detect a less than 1º temperature variance! We use FLIR to quickly identify abnormal overheating to your electrical equipment and devices.
Answer: Only minor problems.
- Our service is based on detecting problems that are causing or may soon cause an electrical fire or shock hazard in your home. When we find an immediate hazard, we will eliminate it. Recommendations for a future repair option will be included in the report and provided to you at the completion of the testing.
- We do include cleaning and minor repairs (i.e. missing straps, unused openings, loose connections...).
Answer: We eliminate the problem!
- We will determine the circuit that is distributing power to the problem and turn off the circuit breaker.
- We may attempt to repair the problem only if a minor adjustment is necessary.
Answer: No.
- We base our service on “Home Electrical Hazard Detection”. We believe the electrical industry has a sufficient amount of qualified electrical contractors available to service your major needs.
Answer: First we will verify that the code violation will not cause an immediate electrical fire or shock hazard.
- Code violations don’t always mean an electrical fire is imminent.
- Many code violations are more of a shock hazard than a fire hazard. After our complete testing and verification is completed, if left alone and undisturbed for a brief time, the risk of fire is minimal.
- We will provide you with options to repair or replace the code violation.
Answer: You are not mandated to replace it.
- CurrentSAFE can perform comprehensive testing to identify the integrity of the fused panel.
- If the fused panel shows signs of problems or fatigue you can choose to repair it or replace it.
- If no problems are detected and minor adjustments are made to verify that the operation is safe and correct, you may choose to continue maintaining the existing panel and not replace it.
Answer: First, we need to verify that you have no wiring conditions affecting your
electric utility costs.
- After testing, we can offer additional energy saving ideas that work specifically for your home.
- Consider replacing standard incandescent lamps with low wattage, long life fluorescent lamps.
- Install timers or photo-cell controls for outside lights.
Answer: Yes!
- If the circuit is accessible for testing, we have the equipment to find an electrical short in your home.
Answer: You need to check with your insurance agent.
- We have discussed the service with a variety of insurance agents and they were excited. Hopefully they will see the benefits and pass on some help to the homeowner.
Answer: Let’s see if there are any problems first!
- We detect electrical problems that increase overheating and shorting risks. Identifying and eliminating immediate fire and shock risks allows you to determine if replacement is necessary.
Answer: An electrical shock prevention device.
- GFI electrical outlets and breakers constantly monitor the power flowing through them, sensing even a 0.5 millivolt change in current and shutting off the power to the outlet.
- The National Electric Code requires that all residences shall have GFI protection in bathrooms, kitchens, unfinished basements, garages, outdoor outlets and all other areas. These devices are also required in areas which can be exposed to water. Detailed guidelines of installation locations can be found in the National Electric Code.
- Carefully replace GFI outlets! If they are wired incorrectly, the "Test" button may work but power can still be flowing through the outlet.
Answer: No! The arc fault circuit breaker is designed primarily to protect against fires. The GFI circuit breaker is designed primarily to protect against shock.
- The National Electric Code requires that all new homes shall have arc fault circuit breakers protecting bedroom circuits.
- These breakers sense the stability of current flow through the circuit. When the internal circuitry of the breaker senses a disruption in the current flow, it will automatically determine if the disruption is a normal occurrence or an arcing situation. The breaker will automatically trip if arcing is identified.
- Although these breakers are quite costly, you may consider upgrading in older homes to give an early warning of failing wiring.
Answer: NFPA regulations state that in new homes, smoke alarms shall be installed in each separate sleeping room and on each additional story of the family living unit, including the basement and excluding crawl spaces and unfinished attics.
REMEMBER: Smoke detectors only detect smoke when it passes in front of the sensor. If a fire starts in concealed areas of the home, such as the attic, chimney or crawl space, the detector may not sense the fire in its early stages. We believe that in such cases, exceeding code requirements may be a wise decision.
NOTE: Manufacturer recommendations for maintaining smoke detectors include an annual vacuuming.
- Each residence must have a minimum of one (1) smoke detector on each floor.
- Bedrooms and sleeping areas should have a minimum of one (1) smoke detector inside each bedroom or sleeping area.
- Stairways and stairwell areas are capable of acting as a chimney during a fire.
- If the hallway between two bedrooms is over 30’ long, two detectors are required.
- Homes built prior to the newest regulations are not required to meet the new code.
- When remodeling or upgrading your home, you may be required to meet the most newly updated code requirements. Check with your local electrical inspector for full details.
- We recommend that any room with a motor operating in it, such as a furnace, should have a smoke detector.
Answer: Comprehensive testing.
- Obviously we push the button but did you know that the button only tests the alarm and the battery - NOT THE SENSOR!
- We use unscented canned smoke to test the sensor. This service is used everyday by hospitals, schools, churches and many commercial facilities.
- This proven comprehensive method of smoke detector testing is now available for your home.
Answer: First decide if you want 110 volt or 9 volt smoke detectors.
- The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) has updated codes to require that new homes be equipped with hard wired 110 volt smoke detectors. This permanent wiring feature provides a constant, 110 volt power circuit directly to the smoke detector, thusly eliminating the risks associated with not installing or not replacing batteries.
- 110 volt smoke detectors need power to operate under normal conditions. They also have a battery back-up for the system during a power outage.
- The standard 9 volt smoke detector, if checked and maintained regularly, is sufficient.
- Next, determine if ionization type or photo-electric type would be best for your home.
- Ionization smoke detectors sense invisible fire particles (common to fast-igniting fires) faster than photo-electric detectors.
- Photo-electric smoke detectors sense visible fire particles (common to smoldering fires) faster than ionization detectors.
- You may want to have an even mix of ionization and photo-electric smoke detectors throughout the home.
Answer: Yes!
- Ceiling mounting is recommended, although wall mounting is acceptable.
- The center of the room's ceiling is the most practical location. If there is a light fixture installed here, locate the detector nearer to the door.
- Ceiling mounted smoke detectors should not be mounted closer than 4” to any side wall.
- Wall mounted smoke detectors must be installed a minimum of 4” to a maximum of 12” from the ceiling.
- Avoid mounting smoke detectors in corners.
- Sloped or cathedral-style ceilings are required to have smoke detectors mounted at, or within, three (3) feet of the peak.
- All sloped ceiling with a horizontal 1’ to 8’ slope shall have smoke detectors mounted on the high side.
- In kitchens and bathrooms containing a tub or shower, smoke detectors shall not be mounted within 3’ of the door.
- Areas with high humidity may cause nuisance alarming.
- Keep smoke detectors 3’ from whole-house ventilators, ceiling fans and forced air heating or air conditioning ducts.
- Mounting smoke detectors near fluorescent lights may cause nuisance alarming.
- Operating temperatures are limited to approximately 40 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
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